I had only the frigid  Beijing air and my large suitcase for company as I waited for the 7.30 train to Chongqing.

30 hours and over 1,800 kilometres separate Beijing from Chongqing via the slow train. Of course, I was well aware of the direct flights available as well as the high-speed rail, both of which would have more than halved my travel time. But it was neither speed or convenience that I wanted. Departing Beijing wasn’t motivated by a desire to arrive in Chongqing. To tell you the truth, I wanted everything in-between.

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